Before Purchase

→About products in general
→About fabric processing characteristics
→About natural materials such as cotton and linen
→Material characteristics and handling precautions
→Other precautions regarding fabric

About products in general

About product numbers

When inquiring about a product, please provide the product number.
All products are numbered, and the product number is indicated within the product details section.

About product names

The product name is the official name.

Since some product names may be similar, we recommend noting down the product number beforehand when inquiring about products.

Please note that product names may be abbreviated on online stores, blogs, social media, etc.

About fabric width

The fabric width stated on the product page is the effective width, which is set to be narrower than the actual width.

Needle holes, scratches, stains, and creases may occur at or near the fabric selvage, and these cannot be avoided during processing.
Therefore, the inner part, excluding these defects, is considered the effective width.
At our company, the area near the selvage outside the effective width is outside the scope of fabric inspection and is therefore not counted as a defect.
When using the fabric, please avoid the selvage area.

Creases near the fabric selvage

Additionally, there may be slight variations in the finished fabric width due to manufacturing lots or colors.
We kindly ask for your understanding regarding a margin of error of approximately +/-10cm from the stated fabric width.

About fabric selvage

Some fabrics may have needle holes on the selvage, but these are unavoidable due to the manufacturing process.
Also, regarding the method of distinguishing the face and back by the direction of the needle hole irregularities, please be careful as the direction of the needle holes may differ depending on the manufacturing process and processing method of the fabric.

When packaging our products, we attach a product number sticker to the face of the fabric.
*See "About fabric face and back" for details.

About fiber content

Fiber content refers to the percentage of fibers contained in the fabric.
Some fabrics are made from a single type of fiber, such as 100% cotton, while others are made from a blend of two or more types of fibers in various proportions, such as 80% cotton and 20% linen.

About yarn count

Some products include a yarn count notation.
Yarn count is a unit indicating the approximate thickness of the yarn.
The higher the yarn count number, the finer the yarn, and the lower the yarn count number, the thicker the yarn.

It is not necessarily true that thicker yarn counts result in thicker fabrics.
Fabric thickness is also influenced by weaving density (picks per inch) and processing methods, so please understand that yarn count is just one guideline.

About fabric thickness

Perceptions of fabric thickness vary individually depending on the season, climate, temperature, and intended use.
We have established a standard and categorize thickness into 5 levels: 1 (thin), 2 (medium-thin), 3 (normal), 4 (medium-thick), and 5 (thick).

For cotton fabrics, "IN50747 Cotton Heavy Poplin" is considered normal thickness. For linen fabrics, "IN50573 Washed Belgian Linen 40-count" is considered normal thickness.
Please note that these are based on our company's standards.

We cannot be held responsible for complaints regarding fabric thickness due to differences in personal perception, and we kindly ask for your understanding.

About fabric sheerness

We indicate sheerness on a 5-point scale from 1 (very sheer) to 5 (not sheer at all).

For cotton fabrics, "IN50747 Cotton Heavy Poplin" is considered medium sheerness, and for linen fabrics, "IN50573 Washed Belgian Linen 40-count" is considered medium sheerness.
We also use whether skin is visible when the fabric is placed on the palm of the hand as a guide. Please understand that these are our company's standards.

Fabric sheerness

≪Caution≫
Please note that this is different from the sheerness when held up to the light.
Even within the same fabric, darker colors and lighter colors will have different levels of sheerness.
Especially white and light colors that are close to white allow light to pass through easily, and no matter how medium-thick or thick the fabric is, it will pick up color contrast, making it prone to sheerness, so please be aware of this beforehand.

Fabric sheerness

About weave structure

Fabrics are broadly divided into plain weaves and twill weaves.
Representative plain weave fabrics include canvas, broadcloth, and lawn.
Representative twill weave fabrics include chino, gabardine, serge, and herringbone.

Plain weave and twill weave

≪Caution≫ 
Regarding the method of identifying the face of twill fabrics by the "ノ" (diagonal line) pattern, it is generally considered that twill woven with single yarns is Z-twill (left-handed diagonal, resembling "ミ") and twill woven with plied yarns is S-twill (right-handed diagonal, resembling "ノ").
Please note that the direction of the twill lines differs depending on whether single yarns or plied yarns are used.

For more details, please refer to each product page.

Right-handed twill and left-handed twill

About fabric face and back

Fabrics have a face and a back due to the manufacturing process.
In principle, only the face is inspected and treated as A-grade (good quality).
Please note that dirt, scratches, etc. on the back side (other than the inspected side) are not counted as defects.

≪Caution≫
When packaging our products, we fold the fabric with the inspected side (face) facing outwards and attach a product number sticker to indicate the face.
If you are unsure which side is the face, it is fine to use either side as the face.
However, please note that the back side (other than the inspected side) and the areas near the selvage may have dirt or scratches, so please be careful and unify the side you use when cutting.

About colors (color names)

Color names are assigned by creating a color assortment for each product, taking into account color familiarity.
Even if the color name is the same as another fabric, the texture and shade will differ due to different materials and processing methods.
For example, even for "Turquoise," the shade and density will vary, such as bright turquoise, dark turquoise, yellowish turquoise, or bluish turquoise. Please be aware of this beforehand.

Similar color families

≪Caution≫
Individual perceptions of colors associated with color names also vary.
For example, in the case of pink, some people might imagine bright pink, others dark pink, light pink, or bluish pink, so the imagined colors are diverse.
Therefore, it is impossible to perfectly match individual perceptions with our color names.
Our product colors (color names) are based on our company's standards. We kindly ask for your understanding.

Similar color families

About fabric purpose and usage

The fabrics we handle are mainly planned and manufactured for apparel (clothing) use.
When using them for purposes other than clothing (e.g., curtains, covers, or other interior items), please be aware that they do not possess any special qualities specific to interior fabrics, such as flame retardancy, shrink resistance, blackout, or heat insulation. Please use them with this understanding.


About fabric processing characteristics

Differences between production lots

Differences in color, texture, and fabric width may occur between production lots. Please be aware of this when reordering. 

Due to variations between manufacturing lots (timing of manufacturing), slight differences in color, texture, and fabric width may occur.
Therefore, when using the fabric, we recommend purchasing the required quantity for a single garment (a complete piece).
If you are reordering and using the fabric again, please be aware that differences in color and texture may occur compared to previously purchased fabric.

About fabric odor

The fabric may retain the inherent smell of the material itself or the unique smell of dyes.

Fabrics may retain the inherent smell of the material itself or the unique smell of dyes.
Those particularly sensitive to smells should be cautious.
Please note that the smell will gradually dissipate with washing and use.

About piece-dyed fabrics

There may be some color variation (light and dark) within the bolt.

Please take parts from nearby sections. Due to the characteristics of the dyeing process, piece-dyed fabrics may have slight color variations (light and dark) between the ends and the middle of the bolt.
When cutting, if you take parts from distant areas, subtle color differences may occur, so please be careful to take parts from nearby sections.

 

Strong rubbing may cause scuff marks (whitening) or shiny streaks.

Due to the characteristics of the processing, strong rubbing of the fabric may cause white streaks.
During washing, prolonged dehydration or scrubbing can easily cause excessive streaks, wrinkles, and scuff marks (whitening).
Also, when ironing, if high heat is pressed firmly against the fabric surface, scuff marks (whitening) may occur. Please be careful during normal washing and ironing.

Scuff marks on fabric

Some fading will occur with washing.

Our original fabrics are finished with a natural texture to bring out the inherent characteristics of the material. Therefore, we avoid using chemical treatments (bleaching, color fixing, anti-shrinkage) that are common in regular dyeing processes as much as possible.
For this reason, please be aware that the degree of color fading may be higher than usual.

Color transfer may occur due to friction. Wash separately from other items.

In the case of piece-dyed colored fabrics, if rubbed strongly against other items, color may transfer.
Color transfer is especially likely to occur when rubbed strongly in a wet state, so when preshrinking (soaking in water) or washing, please do so separately to prevent color transfer to other items.

There may be slight variations in texture and fabric width depending on the color.

Due to the characteristics of natural fibers and processing, the manufacturing timing for each color of the same fabric may differ.
Therefore, there may be slight differences in texture or slight variations in fabric width due to the texture, but there is absolutely no problem with the quality, so please be aware of this beforehand.

Wrinkles, creases, and uneven dyeing may occur due to processing.

Unlike regular processing that aims for a flat finish, our fabrics are finished with a natural texture that brings out the inherent qualities of the material. Due to the processing steps, wrinkles, creases, and uneven dyeing may appear, and these contribute to the unique texture.
Wrinkles, creases, and uneven dyeing do not appear uniformly but randomly, and they vary from one production lot to another.
Therefore, the appearance and texture may vary depending on when you use the fabric, but these are characteristics of the processing and are not counted as defects, so please be aware of this beforehand.

Wrinkles, creases, and color unevenness on fabric

Wrinkles, creases, and dye accumulation may occur at both selvages of the fabric.

Unlike regular processing that aims for a flat finish, we intentionally leverage the nuances created by the material itself to achieve a natural texture. Therefore, strong wrinkles, creases, and dye accumulation may occur at the fabric selvages during the processing steps.
These appear randomly depending on the manufacturing lot, but as they are characteristics of the processing, they are not counted as defects, so please be aware of this beforehand.

Printed fabrics may have slight color unevenness, misregistration, color spots, color loss, stains, or pattern distortion within the bolt.

Printed fabrics, due to the layering of multiple screens after creating a design, may experience slight misregistration.
Additionally, due to the processing steps, some color spots, color loss, and stains are unavoidable even in A-grade (good quality) products, so please understand.

Misregistration occurring at the edge of the fabric

Depending on the pattern (size and arrangement), some parts of the pattern may be cut off due to fabric cutting.

When we cut fabric, we basically cut along the grain.
For some patterns, if the fabric grain and the print pattern do not align, prioritizing the grain when cutting may result in the pattern being cut off. Please be aware of this beforehand.

Example of pattern being diagonal to the fabric grain

About yarn-dyed fabrics

Yarn-dyed (thread-dyed) fabrics are woven after the threads are dyed, resulting in deep colors and revealing the original texture of the raw material.
Therefore, material-specific slubs, neps, weave streaks, and fine irregularities (shibo) may appear, but please understand these as characteristics inherent to the material.

Characteristics of yarn-dyed fabric


About natural materials such as cotton and linen

About cotton

Cotton, also referred to as "menka" (cotton plant), is a fiber derived from the seed hairs of cotton plant seeds.
As plants are agricultural products, variations (individual differences) may occur depending on the climate and soil of the cultivation area.
Raw (unbleached) cotton refers to the material in its natural state, without bleaching, and may contain blackish plant fragments (cotton husks) on the fabric surface.
Cotton fabrics also have a tendency to wrinkle easily.

Cotton husks and streaks characteristic of cotton fabric

About linen and ramie

Only flax (linen) and ramie can be labeled as "linen" in textile products.
We use flax (linen) and ramie as raw materials.

About the color of natural (unbleached) fabrics

Linen is a plant fiber harvested from the bast of plant stems.
As plants are agricultural products, variations (individual differences) may occur depending on the climate and soil of the cultivation area.
Therefore, raw (unbleached) refers to the material in its natural state without bleaching, and it may affect slight color and texture differences between manufacturing lots, so please understand.
Also, our dyed linen fabrics use this raw (unbleached) material, so there will be some color and texture differences when dyed.
When reordering, please understand that there may be differences in color and texture.
Like linen fabric, please enjoy the inherent properties of the material as its unique charm.

Differences in natural linen color due to manufacturing lot

As shown below, natural (unbleached) fabrics may exhibit natural shading or striped patterns in the weave due to subtle color differences in the yarns. Please understand this as a characteristic of natural fabrics.

Natural shading of weave due to linen yarn

About off-white color and mixed colored threads

Off-white is not pure white because it is made by bleaching (off-whitening) the raw (unbleached) natural fibers of cotton and linen to make them closer to white.
The original variations in the slubs and colors of the raw (unbleached) yarn affect the fabric, resulting in variations in whiteness (shade of white), texture, and appearance across manufacturing lots.
When reordering, please understand that there may be differences in color and texture.

Differences in off-white linen fabric color due to manufacturing lot

Additionally, off-white fabrics may show localized yellowish or brownish concentrations of the raw (unbleached) yarn slubs and color variations, or a small amount of foreign fibers (discolored threads) mixed in during the processing of natural raw materials, influenced by fine dust and dirt.
These are all unavoidable due to the inherent characteristics of natural fibers.

Yellowish off-white linen fabric

Foreign fibers visible in off-white linen fabric

Regarding off-white fabrics, strong yellowness, variations in whiteness due to manufacturing lots, residual color in slubs, and the presence of colored threads are not considered defects due to the material's characteristics. Please consider this carefully before use.

About the characteristic prickliness of linen

The prickliness felt is mainly in fabrics made from ramie.
While linen fabrics are generally not considered prickly, individual perceptions vary.
Especially for small children, individuals with delicate skin, or sensitive skin, please be very careful when using linen fabrics.

About the characteristic wrinkles of linen

Since linen is made from the stems of plants, it produces flexible and strong fibers.
Therefore, its inherent nature is to wrinkle easily.
Wrinkles also have their own characteristics; natural wrinkles and texture that appear are due to its inherent properties, so even ironing will not make it perfectly flat.

Wrinkles characteristic of linen and ramie

Attempting to forcefully remove wrinkles by pressing an iron directly and strongly onto the fabric can damage the fibers due to friction, leading to unwanted streaks or shiny marks (whitening). Please avoid this at all costs.
Always iron from the back or use an ironing cloth to prevent damage to the fabric surface.
Regarding requests for wrinkle-free or less wrinkly linen fabrics, we are unable to accommodate them as they contradict the inherent properties of linen.
The greatest charm of linen fabric is its wrinkled texture, so please enjoy the inherent qualities of the material.

Material characteristics and handling precautions

Material characteristics

Natural fibers such as cotton and linen inevitably contain material-specific slubs (thick linear knots on the surface), neps (fiber clumps), husks (colored particles such as plant bark), and foreign fibers (colored threads).
Please note that these are not counted as defects.

Characteristics found in natural fibers

From left: Slubs (thick linear parts)
Neps (fiber clumps)
Husks (colored particles such as plant bark)
Foreign fibers (colored threads)

About fabric shrinkage

Due to the nature of the material, some shrinkage will occur with washing.
The shrinkage rate varies depending on the fabric weave and processing, but as a rough guide, it is said to be around 3%, with shrinkage being greater in the warp direction than in the weft direction.

About preshrinking (water soaking)

Most of the fabrics we handle are processed and finished for apparel use, so they can be cut and used as they are.
However, due to the nature of the material, fabric shrinkage is unavoidable.
Therefore, some fabrics may experience distortion due to shrinkage.
We ask that you choose whether to preshrink or not depending on the intended use and item, such as items with predetermined sizes.

≪Precautions for preshrinking≫
Always preshrink alone. It may cause color transfer.
Always use water. Never use detergent.
Avoid preshrinking methods using a washing machine.
Yarns may unravel from the fabric edge, get entangled in the fabric, damage it, and cause excessive wrinkles and unevenness.
In our opinion, there is no need for prolonged soaking.
Approximately 1 hour for plain fabrics and 30 minutes for printed fabrics is sufficient.
Prepare plenty of water and ensure the fabric is evenly soaked.
If soaking while folded, the surface may appear soaked, but the inside may not be.
In such cases, unevenness may occur on the fabric surface, so ensure thorough soaking.

We cannot accept complaints regarding pre-treatment or post-processing after purchase, and we kindly ask for your understanding.

About washing

Even if machine washable, frequent washing with common household detergents (containing bleach and fluorescent agents) can damage the fabric and impair its texture.
Also, prolonged soaking or dehydration can damage the fabric, cause excessive wrinkles, and impair its texture.
For household washing, please use a neutral detergent and wash delicate items to minimize damage to the fabric.
Always wash colored items separately to prevent color transfer.

Fabrics made of natural fibers such as cotton and linen have low lightfastness, so direct sunlight from sun drying can cause fading, discoloration, and accelerate fabric deterioration.
When drying outdoors, always dry in the shade.

Iron at a medium temperature, using a pressing cloth.
Applying high heat directly and forcefully to the fabric surface can cause scuff marks (whitening) and streaks due to friction.
Pay particular attention to seams and other areas where the fabric is layered and hard, as scuff marks are more likely to appear there.
If ironing from the front, always use a pressing cloth.

Depending on the item and intended use, such as when you want to maintain the fabric's texture and color for a long time, dry cleaning may be necessary instead of household washing with water.

About storage

When storing, absolutely avoid places exposed to direct sunlight or indoor lighting, as this will cause fading and discoloration.
For long-term storage, store in a place not exposed to light.
However, please be careful as moisture accumulation can lead to mold growth and stains.
We recommend using the fabric as soon as possible.

Other precautions regarding fabric

Wool blend materials

Mainly, materials containing wool in natural fibers such as cotton and linen will also experience some shrinkage.
However, please be careful with handling depending on the wool content.

Regarding preshrinking (water soaking), for items with a high wool content (over 40%, more than half), please avoid water soaking or household washing as it may impair the texture.

For items with a wool content of about 10% to 20%, preshrinking (water soaking) and household washing are possible, similar to natural fibers such as cotton and linen.
However, some change in texture is unavoidable, and depending on the item and purpose, dry cleaning may be necessary to maintain the texture.

For household washing, use a neutral detergent and wash delicate items.
Iron at a medium to low temperature, using a pressing cloth.
Applying high heat directly and forcefully to the fabric surface can cause scuff marks (whitening) and streaks due to friction, damaging the fibers and impairing the texture.
If ironing from the front, always use a pressing cloth.

Please note that individual perceptions of the unique prickliness of wool vary.

Comparison of shrinkage in wool blend fabrics after preshrinking

This shows the change after soaking in water at room temperature for about 30 minutes, lightly wringing by hand, and then air-drying in the shade.

Twill Ramie Linen Wool 25s (Product No.: IN50512) 
Fiber content: Ramie linen 90% Wool 10%

Comparison of shrinkage in wool blend fabrics after preshrinking

Shetland Wool Linen Herringbone(Product No.: IN50703)
Fiber content: Linen 60% Wool 40%

Comparison of shrinkage in wool blend fabrics after preshrinking

In both cases, there was almost no difference observed before and after preshrinking, and no difference in shrinkage due to different wool content was seen.
*Please understand that errors may occur due to differences in preshrinking methods.
We hope this serves as a reference when preshrinking or washing at home.

Coarse fabrics such as gauze and voile

Coarse fabrics are prone to fraying or loose threads if snagged, and may tear, so please be careful.
They are more stretchy than regular woven fabrics, and excessive tension can cause tearing or distortion.
Shrinkage from household washing is greater than usual, so please preshrink before use.

High-density fabrics such as ratine, typewriter, and weather cloth

High-density, stiff fabrics are more prone to wrinkles than regular fabrics, so please be careful.
Prolonged soaking or dehydration can damage fibers and cause wrinkles.

If a high-density fabric has no distortion in its grain or fabric undulations, there is no need to preshrink it.
Doing so may instead cause excessive wrinkles or lead to scuff marks (whitening) or streaks from ironing.
However, for natural fibers, shrinkage due to water will occur due to the material's characteristics, so please be aware of this beforehand.

If wrinkles dry while present, they will remain and be difficult to remove, so please be careful. If strongly set creases occur, re-wet the fabric, flatten it, and then iron.
Iron at a medium temperature, using a pressing cloth.
Applying high heat directly and forcefully to the fabric surface can cause scuff marks (whitening) or streaks due to friction that may be irreversible, so please be careful.

Depending on the item and intended use, dry cleaning may be necessary to maintain the texture.

Changes in high-density fabric due to ironing

Brushed and flannel fabrics

The fabric surface is napped to create a soft, warm texture.
Brushed and flannel fabrics, which have a nap, may have a directional flow to the nap.
If there is a nap direction, the appearance of color shades will vary depending on the fabric's orientation, so when cutting, please be careful to orient the fabric (nap flow) in the same direction.

Brushed and flannel fabrics are made by scratching the fabric surface to raise the fibers' nap.
Therefore, they are much more delicate materials than regular fabrics.
For household washing, always place them in a net, use a neutral detergent, and wash delicate items.
Strongly rubbing with an iron may damage the nap texture.
Always use a pressing cloth or iron from the back.
Depending on the item and purpose, dry cleaning may be necessary to maintain the brushed texture.

Corduroy material

Corduroy fabric is characterized by its distinct ridged pattern created by a cutting technique.
The ridges have a nap direction, and the appearance of color shades will vary depending on the fabric's orientation (nap flow). Therefore, when cutting, please be careful to orient the fabric (nap flow) in the same direction.

For pile fabrics such as corduroy, there is a risk that the pile and ridges may collapse during pre-washing or normal washing.
If there is no distortion in the grain or unevenness in the fabric, please do not force pre-washing.
However, please note that natural fibers will shrink due to water due to their inherent properties.

Pile fabrics are very delicate. Prolonged soaking or dehydration can damage the fabric and impair its texture.
For home washing, always put the item in a net, use a neutral detergent, and wash it on the delicate cycle.

Rubbing an iron strongly can damage the pile and ridges. Always use a pressing cloth or iron from the reverse side.

Long pile fabrics may develop creases or scratch marks. Apply a steam iron lightly, lifting it above the fabric, and then gently brush to reshape.

Depending on the item and its intended use, dry cleaning may be necessary to maintain the raised texture.

Precautions and Requests Regarding Post-Processing such as Fabric Preparation (Pre-washing)

The cotton and linen natural fiber fabrics we handle are designed and manufactured for apparel, made to be cut and productized immediately.
However, please note that when handling natural fiber fabrics such as cotton and linen, shrinkage due to the material's properties is unavoidable.

If you determine that you want to reduce distortion or loss of shape depending on the design or intended use, we recommend preparing the fabric by pre-washing it. However, if you determine that there will be no significant impact, we believe it is not necessary to pre-wash.
In such cases, please consider the material's properties and choose whether or not to pre-wash under your own management.

When pre-washing, please note that especially for piece-dyed fabrics, excess dye may bleed, so always wash them separately.
Also, if the fabric is not sufficiently immersed, and if the water does not evenly penetrate the entire fabric, unevenness may occur between the wet and dry areas, so please be very careful.

About Fabric Preparation (Pre-washing)

We believe that using a washing machine for pre-washing is not the original method of fabric preparation.
Loose threads from the fabric edges may become entangled in the fabric, strong wrinkles are easily formed by dehydration, and this can cause damage to the fabric.
Also, there is a risk of unevenness due to detergent residues remaining in the washing machine, so it is best to avoid it.

Furthermore, washing multiple fabrics together carries the risk of color transfer and, if the amount of water is insufficient for proper immersion, unevenness may occur.
Also, washing a large quantity at once may lead to longer soaking and dehydration times, which can damage the fabric's texture.
Regarding dehydration methods, machine dehydration can apply friction and tension, causing unnecessary wrinkles.
It is appropriate to wring by hand to a light degree. For drying, sun drying (leaving it in direct sunlight to completely air dry) will cause wrinkles formed during dehydration to remain once completely dry.
Also, attempting to forcibly remove dry wrinkles with an iron may cause marks, shininess, or whitening of the fabric.
It is best to avoid direct sunlight, dry in the shade in a well-ventilated area, and perform fabric preparation (aligning the grain) when the fabric is semi-dry.

Please understand that we cannot take any responsibility or respond to claims arising from personal pre-processing or post-processing, such as regular fabric preparation (pre-washing) or washing.